Sandwiched between the more popular states of Selangor and Melaka, Negeri Sembilan, in my opinion, is like that quiet cousin at your family gathering who likes to sit in the corner - but is secretly the most interesting person in the room, once you get to know them. There’s an idllyic sort of charm to the place, what with its picturesque nature, its rich Minangkabau culture, and some pretty good food - and since it’s only an hour + from KL, it’s the perfect day trip destination for those seeking some weekend R&R.
I last came here in 2019 with N, when I was tasked with writing a “12 Hours in Seremban” article for a travel magazine. Frankly, we weren’t able to enjoy the experience to the fullest at the time, since the goal was to get in as many sights as possible within the day. Our 2024 trip, however, was leisurely - there was no fixed itinerary, so we could take as much time as we liked at spots we enjoyed.
If you’re someone who has FOMO when travelling and want to hit up as many places as you can, then check out my previous blog post on Things To Do In Negeri Sembilan: A Travel Guide. which covers most of the state’s major attractions. If you like slow travel, though, read on to see where we went to on our most recent trip!
BREAKFAST / BRUNCH AT YI POH RESTAURANT
Our drive from Cyberjaya took about an hour - just in time for a late breakfast at Yi Poh Restaurant along Jalan Seng Meng Lee. If the name sounds familiar, that’s because Yi Poh has become quite popular in the Klang Valley as well, with 9 outlets in KL and PJ.
The menu is pretty extensive, and features typical Malaysian kopitiam breakfast and lunch favourites like toast and soft boiled eggs, a variety of noodles, and some rice dishes as well. N and I both ordered their signature Hakka Mee and was surprised to find that each bowl was still priced below RM10 - I’ve dined at their Puchong branch before and it costs several ringgit more.
Not that I’m complaining, since it means savings for my wallet. The noodles were good, with an al dente texture and the right amount of seasonings. The char siew was tender with a melt-in-the-mouth texture, with a sweet glaze.
I also had a craving for cockles for some reason lol. They’re usually paired with curry noodles, so the waiter gave me an odd look when I ordered them as an add-on, but hey - the thing about being an adult with money is I get to do what I want within reason lol.
N had his customary Cham (Tea + Coffee) and I got the Three Layer Milk Tea with Pandan, hence the green colouring. After driving the long distance the sugar rush hit the spot.
YI POH SEREMBAN HQ is located at 52, Jalan Seng Meng Lee, Seremban, 70200 Seremban, Negeri Sembilan and opens 7.30am - 9pm daily.
THEN TZE KHOON (CENTIPEDE TEMPLE)
No visit to Seremban would be complete without visiting this century-old Taoist temple, undoubtedly the town’s crowning jewel. The temple complex is perched atop a hill about 127 metres above sea level, offering panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
There are two entrances at opposite sides of the hill: the last time, we parked at the base and had to hike 200+ steps to the entrance, wheezing all the way. This time, blessed Waze took us right to the top where I could park my car just a few steps from one of the temple’s entrances. Which is just as well, as I think at this age the hike up would have taken considerable effort.
The temple complex has a few new additions, including a large viewing platform with a Yin-Yang symbol in the middle. The area affords good views of the valley below, which is dotted with low rise buildings and lots of greenery.
The Goddess of Mercy Pavilion. There is a pond at the base of the statue stocked with fat koi fish.
Climbing to the top of the pavilion, we spotted a statue of the Monkey King Wukong gazing out to the hills, golden staff in hand. Incidentally, the hill where the Centipede Temple is built on is called Wu Gong Hill.
One of the main attractions here is the statue of a giant centipede sprawled on a rock. Legend has it that there was once a young man who went out to seek fame and fortune, leaving his mother behind. When he returned with riches and power, he refused to acknowledge her. Angered by his actions, the Gods turned the man and the ship he navigated into a rock. It is said that a large centipede often appeared next to this ship-shaped rock, leading locals to believe that the insect was a reincarnation of the man’s mother. Today’s centipede statue is believed to have been built in the very same spot the insect was often seen at.
A short hike up from this landmark and you’ll find a scene of the 8 Immortals. They feature prominently in Chinese mythology and Taoist literature, each possessing different powers and talents. In the tradition of Taoism, which often deified historical figures, some among the 8 Immortals were real people, like Lu Dongbin, a scholar and poet who lived during the Tang dynasty.
The Guan Yu Pavilion is as impressive as ever, with its classic upturned roof eaves, colourful beams done in the traditional southern Chinese architecture, and intricately carved dragons wrapped around grey stone pillars.
Enshrined here is Guan Yu (or Guan Di) another prominent figure in Taoism / Chinese mythology who was formerly a mighty Chinese military general. His deeds were glorified and he was well known as a paragon of justice, loyalty, and righteousness, so much so that a figure of Guan Yu is often found in police stations in Hong Kong (ironically, he is widely worshipped among Chinese triads as well).
The main shrine at Then Tze Khoon is dedicated to Then Tze, a Taoist priest and deity, with parts of it built into the rock face. Inside, you’ll find dozens of red lanterns lighting up the otherwise dim space, as well as a tower of revolving prayer lights.
If you’re hiking up from the temple’s other entrance, you won’t miss the small shrine dedicated to the Datuk Gong, local deities that the Chinese pray to. Pre-Islamisation, the Malays practiced animism and the worship of spirits - a tradition that was still prevalent when Chinese immigrants moved to the Malay Straits centuries ago. These animistic practices were quite in line with how the Chinese worship our folk deities - hence, the practice was adopted into the Nusantara-Chinese culture.
With its shady pathways and tranquil environment, Then Tze Khoon offers a nice respite from the city. I would allocate about an hour or two here - most of the time we just sat around the pavilions chilling and soaking in the greenery of our surroundings.
Then Tze Khoon Temple is located at Jln Temiang, 70200 Seremban, Negeri Sembilan.
SNACKS AND PASTRIES FROM KEE MEI SIEW POW
It was mid-afternoon by the time we finished exploring the temple, so we drove back into town for Seremban’s most famous snack - siew bao (or siew pau) aka baked barbecue pork buns. These flaky delights, sprinkled with a smattering of sesame seeds on top, are a Seremban specialty and it’s easy to find shops selling them all around town. Of course, the jury is still out as to which establishment has the best siew bao - opinions differ strongly amongst fans, as they always do when it comes to Malaysians and our food.
On this occasion, we stopped at Kee Mei Siew Pau. This is quite a popular brand and you can find them in the Klang Valley as well. The standard suite of pastries at these bakeries will always include siew pau and lou por beng (literally ‘wife biscuits’), kaya puffs and curry puffs, and tau sar piah (red bean biscuits - similar to the Filipino hopia and the Indonesian bakpia).
Kee Mei Siew Pau’s Temiang branch is located at 76-A, Jln Temiang, Taman Unian, 70200 Seremban, Negeri Sembilan and opens from 9am - 7.30pm, closed Tuesdays.
BACK TO NATURE AT TAMAN EKO RIMBA ULU BENDUL
Our last stop for the day was a little ways out of Seremban, at a forest reserve / recreational park called Taman Eko Rimba Ulu Bendul. Located at the foot of Gunung Angsi, it is a popular spot for picnics and camping, since it has a stream running through parts of the park as well as a public pool.
They’ve expanded parts of the park - I believe this area was not open to the public during my last visit. Now they have a playground for children and other recreational equipment within a nicely manicured lawn area. Not sure what trees these are but their heights are very impressive!
You can cool down with a dip in the shallow stream, but beware of sharp rocks.
The ‘pool’ is essentially part of the stream that has been dammed. The water flows down the rocky bed, creating mini rapids. Some visitors took advantage of this by sitting at the bottom of the water flow, which forms a natural jacuzzi.
One of the park’s most striking feature is its collection of large boulders lining the pedestrian walkway. The boulders’ appearances have changed since our last visit - many of them now sport a layer of green and yellow lichen, which makes them look even more striking.
We weren’t planning to bathe in the stream so we hadn’t brought a change of clothes, but clambering over the rocks for photos was a surprisingly fun activity lol. Plus you get to soak in nature. Green is good for the soul, after all.
Taman Eko Rimba Ulu Bendul is located at Tanjung Ipoh, Negeri Sembilan.
And that wraps up our day trip to Seremban! It was a short but sweet trip - not having to rush to fit everything into our itinerary actually left us feeling more relaxed. I can see the appeal of slow travel, especially now that I’m no longer in my 20s. And even though I have already been to Seremban several times, revisiting the place and experiencing things again through fresh lenses is a refreshing experience.
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PS2: All travel and food expenses are out of my own pocket unless otherwise stated. Views here are my own and are based on my personal experience. They are not meant to endorse or disparage businesses in any way